Outstanding alumni at the French Culinary

Last week, Kee told me she was to be the recipient of an outstanding alumni award from FCI. She asked if I would come to the ceremony. I immediately said yes.

I arrived at the French Culinary just past six. Chefs were still finishing the hors d'ouevres, and no one was in attendance. I asked the coordinator if the ceremony didn't start at six? He said six thirty. He invited me to stay, or said I could take a walk around the block. I opted for the latter, ended up at Banana Republic, and bought a shirt.

By the time I returned, the room had begun to fill. I found Kee and we chatted briefly before I left for the bar and a glass of champagne. I fell into conversation with the owner of the Tompkins Square bakery, and a woman who works for Paris Gourmet, a supplier to both Kee and the French Culinary. She said she was half-Thai and we talked about the country and the food. When a plate of foie gras appeared, she thought it might be one of their products, mixed with something else and blended smooth. She asked me what I thought of the coconut shrimp. I said it would be better if it were spicier.

As the ceremony began, the founder of the school spoke of their expansion and their new Italian cooking program. They have partnered with a school in Parma, and she said that two thirds of their new program would be taught in Italy. She then introduced the co-vice presidents of the Societe Culinaire Philanthropique, who offered a few words about their organization. Then the awards were announced.

Dan Silverman, the head chef of Lever House, won the award for culinary. He had Dorothy Hamilton gave him his award, pointing out that all the plaques were illustrated by Jacques Pepin. Kee won the award for pastry. Her speech was short and to the point. Dorothy mentioned Kee's 29 Zagats rating, the highest for any chocolate shop in the city, and also her quick rise, having graduated in 2000 and only owned her shop for three years. Finally, Marc Vetri won under bread. He recently won a James Beard award, and his restaurant is considered by some to be the best in the mid-Atlantic States, if not in the entire country.

Dorothy told a story of driving back to New York from Washington D.C. She was with the food critic Alan Richardson, and when he realized they were to pass through Philadelphia, he said they had to stop for Vetri's food. Vetri's is a small 35 seat room, however, and Dorothy didn't think they'd get a table; it was a Saturday night. He called ahead. The didn't get in. "I'm Alan Richardson, do you know who I am?" she heard him say.

Alain Sailhac told another story. He had met Jacques Pepin in Philadelphia, and Pepin said they should try Vetri's, opened by a former student. Sailhac noted that Pepin is notoriously critical. They sat down to the first course, and Pepin said nothing as they ate. The second course came, and Pepin remained silent, until he started speaking softly, "But this food is incredible," he said. "Who is this Vetri?"

When Vetri accepted his award, he said that Sailhac must be exaggerating. Sailhac denied it. Vetri said a few heartfelt words of thanks to the French Culinary and then everyone posed for pictures.

After it was over, Kee offered to give us a tour. We walked past the walls of photos, and Kee pointed out herself in the various class photos. The kitchens were busy with students. As we walked back towards the kitchen theater, we passed a large photo of her that had been taken recently. A group of students watched her pass and then looked at the photo on the wall. "Is that . . . ?" I heard one student ask another. I turned around, smiled, and said yes. Posted by eku at October 28, 2005 9:11 AM