Shanghai

I am in Shanghai. It's louder and more aggressive than Beijing. It makes the capital seem almost provincial by comparison. I got a taste of it on the overnight train, as a large group of Shanghainese screamed at each other by way of conversation deep into the night. I put my headphones on and tried to sleep.

The soft seats were surprisingly comfortable, and had I a blanket and a pillow I could have passed the night well. The train made no stops and we sped south, reaching a peak speed of 155 km/hr. We arrived exactly at 7:12 in the morning, prompting my neighbor to remark on the train's punctuality.

I took a cab to C—'s apartment complex. The doorman let me in and directed me to the apartment. The door was ajar and I let myself in. I said hello and called out to C—. There was no response. The shower was running. I had a vision of being in the wrong apartment and at the scene that might erupt. I saw an employee badge on the kitchen table and checked the name and photograph. It was C—; I breathed a sigh of relief.

She emerged from the shower and went to get dressed. She showed me where everything was and then left for work. I showered and shaved and looked at the maps she had left to get my bearings. I saw that my former colleagues had an office nearby in the Xintiandi area and I decided to pay them a visit.

Not knowing the name of the company, I translated it directly into Chinese and asked the concierge for the floor. He didn't know it, but I found it listed in English in his booklet and he directed me to an elevator. I almost laughed when the receptionist directed me to the office using the translation I had used. No one was home. I left a message and went to explore the city.

I took the metro to Nanjing Dong Lu to walk the Wujiang snack street. I made a beeline for Yang' sFry Dumplings. I paid for one order and got into line. They came out sizzling on a large iron skillet, just as I remembered. A woman slid four onto a plate and I went to find a place to sit. They were amazing. I finished my plate and got back into line for another order. I could have sat and ate them all day.

I walked east to Renmin park. The Shanghai Art Museum was hosting their seventh bienniale and so I went. I toured the exhibits and then wandered to the nearby Museum of Contemporary Art. I asked at the front desk for directions to the Shanghai Museum, but as I approached it, I decided it was too nice a day to spend visiting another museum. I decided to window shop on Nanjing Dong Lu. I took out my guidebook to check my bearings and two Chinese girls stopped.

One asked me in English if I needed help. I asked her the name of the road we were on in Chinese. She was surprised and asked me how I spoke Chinese so well. I told her that I was Chinese, but grew up in the states. She said they were from Xi'an, visiting Shanghai for two weeks. A friend of theirs was getting married, which provided the impetus for their trip. I told them that I was also visiting a friend. They asked if I had been to Xi'an and I said yes. I asked them the way to Nanjing Dong Lu, and they said that the stores there were very expensive. I told them I was only looking with no intent to buy. They pointed to a department store a block away and said that was where it started. I thanked them and bid them adieu.

I wandered into the Nike store and then walked down the broad pedestrian avenue. A woman asked me the way to the Bund. I didn't understand her at first and then pointed the way. She asked if I was alone and whether she could walk with me. I told her that I was going to take photos and would walk slowly. I bid her continue. I checked out the Li Ning store and then continued on. Two women stopped me to ask me where I was from. I told them to guess. One thought I was Malay. I told them I was Chinese and they asked if I was half. I said no. They were surprised at my nose; they said they thought I looked somewhat Western. They asked if they could walk with me and I said that I was meeting a friend. I walked on.

A well-dressed woman asked where I was from. I told her to guess. She was surprised at my Chinese. I told her where my father was from. She seemed confused and began to fall back. I slowed down to see what she would say. She asked if she could walk with me and I told her I was meeting a friend. She still couldn't figure me out and disappeared into the crowd.

I walked along the Huangpu river, admiring the views towards Pudong. The Bund was under construction, blocking access from one side of the street to another. After a while, I left the Bund and found myself back in the city. I wandered through one park and found myself on the far corner of Yu Yuan gardens. I walked south along a back alley and found myself confronted by the full force of the shops that line Zhong Lu. I turned the corner and found myself in front of the temple of the city gods. Continuing down that street, I crossed a few avenues until I found myself by the Dongtai Lu market. I backtracked to peek in on the bird and insect market, finding half of it razed to the ground. Workmen pounded the concrete with sledgehammers while a man in a business suit watched.

I turned towards the direction of C—'s house. The sun was setting. The air was thick. I wandered through the new Xintiandi development and stopped by a bakery for tarts. The crowds surged then thinned as I walked through the gates of C—'s complex. The guard greeted me and then I was home.
Posted by eku at October 14, 2008 6:46 AM