Gondar
The journey to Gondar was uneventful. The man seated beside Ed conversed with him almost the entire way. He said he lived near the Debre Berhan Selassie Church. He gave Ed his number and told him to call if we were in the area. Ed told him we would.
We booked a room at the Goha hotel. Situated on a high shelf in the mountains overlooking the town, we had expansive views over the buildings and castles. From a corner of the window, we could see the Royal Enclosure, just about making out one of the many palaces therein.
The next morning we got to a late start. We ate a leisurely breakfast at the hotel before making our way down to the Royal Enclosure. It was closed for lunch. We decided to try our luck at the Debre Berhan Selassie Church and found it closed. As we were about to walk away, a priest motioned to us. He unlocked the door and let us in.
The 18th cenutry church was beautiful. Every square inch of the interior had been painted, and the ceiling boasted the winged portraits of 80 Ethiopian cherubs. I stood and marvelled at the paintings, full of wit and charm, and possessed of a life lacking in those of Lake Tana. I wanted to linger, but the priest gently made it known it was time for his lunch. I quickly took some photos and we left. The priest locked up behind us.
On our way back towards the center of town, we heard Ed's name being called. We turned and saw the man from the bus. He told us we were just passing his house and invited us over for coffee. We followed him a little off the main road and into his sister's house. She sat down before a ceramic stove and began roasting coffee beans on a metal platter. The beans began to give off a rich aroma. Once they were roasted, she crushed them in a mortar with a wooden pestle. She then began to heat water in a black pot, adding the grounds to it. Before her sat a box with rows of cups. The box sat upon some loose blades of grass.
Our host told us that grass was a sign of welcome. Using it was a way of bringing nature into the house. His sister began popping popcorn and he told us that the popcorn was used for its resemblance to flowers. He said that traditionally, people would sit and drink from three brews of coffee.
As we waited, our host asked Ed why he had not called. Ed told him that he had tried, but he might have confused the exchange. Our host admitted that the area codes had changed recently, but looked dubious. By then the coffee was done. His sister poured us each a cup. It was the most delicious coffee I have ever had. It was without bitterness, and the coffee had a rounded flavor I had never before encountered.
Our host then told Ed he wanted to set up a charitable foundation to support people in his village. Ed nodded; it was his turn to look dubious. Our host then told us his sister was involved in network marketing. She showed us her books, and he asked us if we were interested. We demurred. The afternoon was wearing on, and we had yet to visit the royal enclosures. We decided to take our leave. Our host thanked us for our time, we thanked him for the coffee then bid him adieu.
The royal enclosure had just re-opened. Some call Gondar the Camelot of Ethiopia, and we were soon to see why. We asked about a guide, and were told that we could find them inside the compound.
Our guide was invaluable. He led us through the palaces and ruins in chronological order, explaining their relationships to each other and the relationships between the different kings who built them. The structures were beautiful, from Fasiladas' 17th century fortress to his son's much more modest castle. Unfortunately, British bombs had destroyed a number of the buildings while trying to roust the Italians, who had set up camp in the castles during World War II.
Soon it was raining. It had rained every afternoon we had been in Ethiopia, and we took shelter in the ruins of a set of stables, chatting idly wth our guide waiting for the rain to abate.
That night, we had dinner at the Habesha Kitfo, a small restaurant across the street from the enclosure. We walked in on a carpet of grass. A duck waddled in the corner. We sat on short stools and a waiter took the cone off our table. We ordered fasting food, which proved fantastic. It was the best meal we had had.
