30 September 2006
Arriving in Debark

The first bus from Gondar left at seven in the morning. We took the one at nine. There was some confusion as people crowded on and then were kicked off for lack of a ticket. A young girl clung tenaciously to the seats she was saving for her family. A priest beside me began chanting; the woman in front of him said her amens. He pulled a picture of Jesus Christ from the folds of his clothes and had it attached to the front of the bus. He recited scripture as we pulled out of the station; the driver turned up the music.

We arrived in Debark in three hours. After checking into the hotel we walked to the Simien Mountains National Park office and discussed plans for our trek. An official guide, Noor, who looked something like Mos Def helped us with our options.

We decided on a six day trek. On the first day we would drive to Sankabar and then hike from there to Gich camp, where we would spend two nights. From Gich we would hike to Chenek, located at the far edge of the camp, via the viewpoint of Imet Gogo. We'd spend two nights there and then begin our journey back, hiking back to Sankabar along the dirt road one day and then back to Debark on the next.

Once we were settled on our itinerary, Noor introduced us to our cook Gilbrat, our guide Windeflow, and our guide Ababa. Noor told us that the guides worked on rotation, and it was Ababa;s turn. Ababa told us her name meant "flower" and that she was the only female guide to the mountains. After meeting each other she said she was going home to rest and would see us in the morning. Noor then told us it was time to shop for food.

He told us it would be easier to make a list and let the cook and he go to the market. If we were to follow, it would attract a crowd, and shopping would become difficult. We agreed and sat down to draw up a list of provisions. The cook estimated the costs, and we gave him the money. They set off for the market and Ed and I sat down to dinner.

Gilbrat soon returned with sacks of food. A small pile began to form in the corner of our room, and soon our room smelled like a farmer's market. By now night had fallen. We we had arranged for an early start and prepared to retire. We thanked Noor, and bid him goodnight. I took a shower, savoring the hot water, and climbed into bed. I wouldn't shower for another week.